2016 Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Eiswein
One of my colleagues—who take more professional notes than I do—will have recorded the must-weights and harvest temperatures for these wines. Please ask us if you’d like to know. They were all picked not especially late, and all were picked clean. I do not like syrupy sweet wine no matter how high in acidity, and as you can see, I found these to be perfect or damn near. I’m listing them this way because it makes sense to order all three. Eiswein has become an endangered species in our climate era, and many of those one does see are picked too late and too dirty and the results are oogy.
The Domberg is savory, with pancetta and caraway notes floating through the silvery ether of purity. The Altenberg is fruitier, more of a marmalade, easier to grok. It’s gorgeous, but earthbound.
The Rheingrafenberg has even more of the buzzing gorgeous steely icicle purity; the most concentrated, the greatest torque and the richest internal fruit. - Terry Theise
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