2016 Kunstler Hochheimer Hohle Riesling Kabinett Trocken
I really wonder if the VDP will chuck our hero out, or otherwise admonish him in some inane way. Not that I wish for it—though I did encourage another VDP estate to “quit the fuckers” or words to that effect. That any set of strictures, however ostensibly logical, might have prevented the production of a wine like this is prima-facie wrongheaded.
For it is a masterpiece, a GREAT vintage for a Cru that’s sometimes too sultry. It’s like a semolina dumpling cooked in a light chicken stock and napped in a starchy, salty nage, served with a mint and coconut meringue. A deliberate fennely finish shimmers in your neon-fresh mouth. - Terry Theise
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